“Some people call me obsessive or driven or lucky or whatever. I’m all of those things. Shouldn’t we all be?”
“Most anything I’ve ever set my mind to, I could accomplish.”
“A wave isn’t like a skate ramp or mountain; everything’s moving around, and you have to time how to move along with it. That’s easier with a slow wave.”
“Surfing is my religion, if I have one.”
