“Showing by example is better than telling someone what to do.”
“In surf sports, it’s about being more relaxed. The harder you push the slower you go. If you just relax and lighten your feet and approach, you’re going to be doing stuff you wouldn’t be doing otherwise.”
“The most calm feeling I ever have is right before I drop into something chaotic.”
“The more pressure I get, the better I become.”
“Basically you instantly feel like nothing else in the world exists, nothing else matters. You’re living in the moment.”
“Mastery is being able to let go.”
“I’ve never been scared of death because I figure it’s inevitable.”
Met one of the greatest! My list of the most influential surfers; Duke Kahanamoku, Woody Brown, Greg Noll, Gerry Lopez, Laird Hamilton, Kelly Slater & Kai Lenny.
My mom shot this video of Kai getting DOUBLE barreled.