heʻe puʻe wai
Hawaiians were the first to surf stationary river waves, the word “Kahawai” means “river or stream”. Surfing in Hawaii, known as “He’e nalu” literally translates to “wave sliding”. Surfing has a rich history deeply rooted in Polynesian culture and spirituality. It wasn’t just a sport, but a spiritual practice and a way of life for ancient Hawaiians, with royalty and commoners alike participating. While river surfing in Hawaii isn’t as well known as ocean surfing, the mouth of the Waimea River on O’ahu is a legendary river break being surfed to this day. There is also evidence dating back for centuries of Hawaiians surfing the Wailua River on Kauaʻi, Wailuku and Waiohonu rivers on Maui, and the Wailuku, Honoliʻi, Papaʻikou, and Waipiʻo rivers on the island of Hawaiʻi.
River Wave Surfing
River Surfing Wave Pool
Jamie O’Brien surfing Waimea River
When Jamie O’Brien digs out the sand on a beach to connect a flooded estuary with the ocean to create a surfable wave this is called “He’enalu Muliwai”. In Hawaiian, “muliwai” generally refers to an estuary or stream mouth, where a freshwater stream meets the ocean. Jamie is creating a transition zone wave between freshwater and saltwater environments that demostrates the power of water and is alot of fun to surf.
River Surfing at Night
Kelly Slater River Surfing
River Surfing with Gerry Lopez