“One thing you learn from surfing is how to operate in the present. It’s really what the surfing experience is all about.”
“I think I’m getting wealthy in ways that don’t count at the bank.”
“Everyone gets caught inside when surfing. You have 2 options. Give up or paddle outside. Life is the same. Keep paddling!”
“Surfing is a deeply wonderful thing – anytime, anywhere and any way.”
“Whether any surfer wants to admit it or not, I think we’ve all had moments like looking at nice waves coming through the lineup maybe, only for a moment, feeling that we are in the presence of something holy. There is a spiritual-ness when you actually get in harmony with something as natural as the waves and the ocean, and yeah, it is definitely a religious experience.”
“Well, in regards to surfing, I’ve learned that there is always another wave coming. Translated that means there is always tomorrow. No matter how badly you get caught inside, if you can just hang in there and keep paddling, the set is going to pass and there will be a lull afterwards. So don’t give up, just take your pounding, wait until the set passes, then make your move.”
“In my lifetime, I’ve met a lot of people who never rode a wave, but we share the same consciousness. Surfing is a kind of a state of mind… I mean, it’s a feeling that people have about their life that really, in a way, kind of makes them a surfer.”
“Waves keep coming, that’s the one thing you can count on in life.”
“There is wisdom in waves. Some surfers see it right away, others never do. To find success in surfing, we must learn to be in harmony with nature. This will bring a sense of peace. By sharing this peace, and contributing to other people’s happiness, we can find the true meaning of life. Keep surfing . . .”
The Yin & Yang of Gerry Lopez
With Stacy Peralta at the Maui Film Festival who produced and directed ‘The Yin & Yang of Gerry Lopez’
‘Surf Is Where You Find It’ -Gerry Lopez