“It really is never too late, it really is never too early to figure out your goals and dreams and what you love.”
“In the beginning of my career, I loved the fear because if I was afraid, then I was going to get the rush. Your endorphins get released when you’re afraid. So whenever I would surf, I would be looking for the rush.”
“To ride big waves you have to be ready mentally, physically and spiritually.”
“The ocean is my church and my playground, and it’s where I love to be. It’s where I belong.”
“Surfing is cleansing, pure and beautiful; it’s where I feel most comfortable.”
“I hope to be able to keep surfing as long as I’m alive.”
Hound of the Sea is his memoir; The Seven Spiritual Laws of Success is one of his favorite books.
I’ve had this old poster of Mr McNamara surfing a 78 foot wave on my wall in all my different rooms since I was a little kid.
